Sunday, May 18, 2014

A Week in the Holy Land

At the end of February we spent about a week in Israel. We arrived in Tel-Aviv on Saturday afternoon where Sigalit and Ophir greeted us at the airport. After checking into our hotel we headed to Sigalit’s home for a family birthday celebration. On Sunday morning Ryan headed off to class while Sig and I spent the day in Jaffa. 
Tel-Aviv
  Jaffa
Jaffa, called Yafo in Hebrew, is one of the oldest port cities in the land of Israel and the Mediterranean. The city was named in honor of its original founder Japhet (one of Noah’s 3 sons who founded the city after escaping from the flood). The city is perched on top of a hill overlooking the sea with a natural harbor; ancient Jaffa was a strategic prize. It was conquered and re-conquered countless times by Canaanites, Phoenicians, Pharaohs, King David, the Assyrians and more. While in Jaffa Sig and I spent the afternoon taking a city walking tour using an audio guide. 

The first sight we came across on our walking tour was St. Peters Franciscan Church. The bell tower of the church overlooks the sea and is an icon of Jaffa. The church was built 360 years ago in honor of St. Peter, who raised a disciple named Tabitha from the dead nearby. As opposed to most churches, which face east, St. Peter’s faces west, towards the sea, where Peter’s famous dream took place, and towards Rome where he was later sent. Like all over Jaffa and Israel, the church is built on top of layers of former churches. The original Byzantine church was built in the 7th century, rebuilt by Louis the IX of France and the Crusaders in the 1200s, destroyed by the Turkish Mamluks, and so on… The current church was rebuilt in 1888.

St. Peters Franciscan Church

Our walking tour led us to the harbor. Jaffa is one of the oldest functioning harbors in the world. Today it harbors only small fishing boats, but this was once the port to which Jonah came when fleeing from the Lord to Tarshish (Jonah 1:3). For the construction of Solomon's Temple, cedars were floated from Phoenicia to Jaffa and then transported to Jerusalem (2 Chr 2:16). Jaffa was the main port of entry during the Turkish period and pilgrims and visitors would enter the Holy Land here. Just beyond the port lies a rock outcropping where, according to Greek mythology, a woman named Andromeda was chained and offered as a sacrifice to an angry sea monster. But Perseus (son of Zeus), her future husband, rescued her and killed the monster. The head of the monster fell into the water and became the famous sea rocks of Jaffa. 
Andromeda's Rock
House of Simon the Tanner
We made a brief stop to hear the history of the house of Simon the Tanner.  This is the site where Peter raised Tabitha from the dead and saw the vision in which he was commanded to eat animals regarded as unclean in Jewish tradition. When he refused, he heard a voice saying: “What God has cleansed you must not call common” (Acts 10:15). Peter interpreted his vision as divine permission to forgo the Jewish commandments and preach Christianity to Jews and pagans. This was a historic turning point, in which Christianity evolved from what was considered an obscure set of Judaism to a worldwide religion.

Slope Park is the first park of Old Jaffa. The park is located entirely on the structures and foundations of destroyed houses. From the park we were able to take in some amazing views of Tel-Aviv's shoreline, the promenade, and hotels located along the beach. Cast iron shore batteries, which were discovered in excavations of the Jaffa Harbor, are now located at the upper entrance of the park, evidence of Jaffa's capture by Napoleon and his army.
View of Tel-Aviv From Slope Park
Jaffa's clock tower was built in 1901 in the center of the town square and another stop on our walking tour. The tower is one of seven built as a part of the modern reforms guided by the sultan, in order to conduct the empire’s cities by accurate Western timetables. According to the local tale, the tower was built at the initiative of a wealthy Jew of Jaffa, who erected the clock tower in order to save himself pestering by pedestrians who would come in to his shop to ask the time on their way to the train station. Four clocks were installed in the tower two of them showing the time in Europe, and two of them the time in Israel.

The Clock Tower
Part of the Egyptian Gate Facade







  










When the Egyptians invaded Canaan in the 15th century BC, one of their prime targets was Jaffa. This walled city with a maritime link to the main cities and access to the heart of the land. Excavations in Jaffa have uncovered one of the largest late Bronze Age assemblages of Egyptian ceramics excavated in Israel. In the 1990’s a re-creation of the Egyptian gate façade of Ramesses II was built to illustrate the location of the original gate. Excavations continue at the site as Egyptian ceramics and artifacts belonging to earlier phases of Egypt’s occupation of Jaffa are uncovered. The fragments discovered of the monumental gate façade were inscribed with the name of Ramesses II. The gate was the adorned entrance to the Late Bronze Age Egyptian fortress. We stopped on our walking tour to watch the excavations and hear of Egyptian history in Jaffa.

During our walking tour of Jaffa we also stopped to admire the hanging orange tree, the new Saraya House, the Mahmoudia Mosque, the Jaffa Museum of Antiquities, and the Zodiac Fountain in Old Jaffa. I had a wonderful time exploring Jaffa and learning of its vast history.

Caesarea

On Thursday afternoon Sig took us to the city of Caesarea. Caesarea is a city Herod the Great dedicated to Caesar Augustus more than 2,000 years ago. Once the site of a Phoenician port, over the course of 12 years Herod built Caesarea into the grandest city other than Jerusalem, with a deep sea harbor, aqueduct, hippodrome, and amphitheater which remains standing today.  
Remains of Crusader Fortifications
The amphitheater is a spectacular Roman remnant, which today serves as a modern venue for performances and concerts. The inside of the theater is not only impressive as a remnant of the glory days of Rome, but for its spectacular view of the Mediterranean. Inside the gate of the theater is a plaque with a replica of the inscription found during excavations in 1959-1963 with the words "TIBERIVM" and "TIVS PILATUS," references to emperor Tiberius and Pontius Pilate, the governor of Judea at the time of Jesus. This was an important find because it is the only archaeological evidence of Pilate's existence.

Amphitheater At Caesarea
Caesarea is an important site in Christian history. It was the place where Pontius Pilate governed during the time of Jesus. This was where Simon Peter converted the Roman, Cornelius, the first non-Jew to believe in Jesus. Paul was also imprisoned here for two years. In 640 CE, Caesarea was the last Palestinian city to fall to the Muslim invaders. In 1101, the Crusaders captured the city, only to lose it in 1187 to Saladin.  Under the Crusader rule, the Jewish community of Caesaria dwindled until in 1170 only 20 Jews remained. From 1251-1252, the city was entirely reconstructed by Louis IX. In 1265, Caesarea fell to Baybars, the Mamluk sultan of Egypt, who destroyed the city, which remained in ruins until 1884. In 1884, Muslim refugees from Bosnia established a small fishing village on the remains of Caesarea. 

Ruins of Herod's Palace at Caesarea

 In 21 BCE, Herod the Great built a massive, two-part harbor, an inner and outer harbor, at Caesarea. The all-weather harbor was constructed by using hydraulic concrete to create breakwaters in the sea. The harbor took twelve years to construct. Herod named the harbor Sebastos, in honor of Emperor Augustus. Archeological evidence suggests the outer harbor had serious structural problems by the end of the 1st century CE. Today the Herodian breakwaters are submerged 5m below the water surface. 


The hippodrome built by Herod also is still identifiable. Considerably smaller than the great Circus Maximus in Rome, Herod's arena still held 20,000 spectators for chariot races. Remnants of the fortress walls built by the Crusaders are monuments to yet another fascinating period in Israel's history. King Louis IX of France embellished the Crusader fortifications in 1251. 
Falafels



We ended out visit to Caesarea with some tasty falafels. A falafel is a deep friend ball or patty made from ground chickpeas, fava beans, or both. Falafel is a traditional Middle Eastern food, usually served in a pita. 






 Following our visit to Caesarea we stopped to see the ruins of a Roman aqueduct. Caesarea required a steady flow of running water.  Initially its waters came from the local wells. However, as the population grew to several hundred thousand people, a large-scale aqueduct was required to bring the water from a distance.  The aqueduct was built in several phases, starting from King Herod. Herod built the aqueduct at the time the new city was founded and dedicated to the Roman Caesar, Augustus. The aqueduct brought the water from the southern side of Mount Carmel to the north east of the city. The water flowed 10 kilometers on a single raised canal. The aqueduct continued to supply water for 1,200 years. 

Roman Aqueduct of Caesarea
Nazareth and the Sea of Galilee
   
On Friday we took a tour visiting the Holy sites around the Sea of Galilee with Sig and her wonderful children. Our first stop was Mount Tabor, a steep round hill on the northeast side of the Yizreel valley. The hill is strategically located on the main north-south ancient road, and for most Christians it is a Holy mountain. “The mount of Transfiguration.” The Transfiguration of Jesus takes place in the New Testament. Jesus is transfigured or metamorphosed and begins to shine with bright rays of light. According to Catholic tradition Mt. Precipice is the site where Jesus leaped from the hill after chased away from the synagogue. 

 Mount Tabor


After enjoying the views from the top of Mount Precipice we headed into Nazareth. The city of Nazareth is the largest Arab city in Israel, with a population of 60,000. The city was once split evenly between Christians and Muslims, but no nearly two-thirds Muslim. Nazareth is important in Christian history, as it is the place where Jesus spent much of his life. 

The City of Nazareth
Our first stop in Nazareth was the Church of the Annunciation. The Church of the Annunciation is located over the site that was believed to be the house of Mary, where the angel Gabriel appeared and announced to Mary she was about to give birth to Jesus. Four earlier churches were built on the same location and archeological excavations in this site revealed early Roman settlements. The current church is a two-story building constructed in 1969 over the site of an earlier Crusader-era church. Inside, the lower level contains the Grotto of the Annunciation, believed by Christians to be the remains of the original childhood home of Mary. Some of the ruins from the Crusader-era church are visible in the construction of the current Church of the Annunciation. 
The Church of the Annunciation
Inside The Church of the Annunciation
St. Joseph's Church


Our next stop was St. Joseph's Church which was walking distance from The Church of the Annunciation. St. Joseph’s Church is a Roman Catholic Church, which was built in 1914 over the remains of a 12th century church. The caves, granaries, and wells in the lower level were used by the early dwellers of Nazareth. Later, Christians turned the site into a worship place. Travelers who had visited the place in the 7th century pointed out that this had been the location of the “Carpentry Shop of Joseph”. Later traditions identify the place as being “The House of Joseph”.




Nazareth Synagogue


 Before making our last stop we made a short visit to the Nazareth Synagogue. According to the tradition, the Nazareth Synagogue where Jesus preached stood on this spot (Luke 4:16). From the late twelfth century onwards, pilgrims reported visiting a church on the site in Nazareth. Adjacent to the Synagogue Church, is the parish church of Nazareth’s Greek Catholic community, which was built in 1887.  

Baklava





Our last stop in Nazareth was a bakery where we sampled some fresh made Baklava. Baklava is a sweet pastry filled with nuts (often pistachios) or fruit and sweetened with honey or another type of syrup. 




After visiting Nazareth we headed toward the Sea of Galilee, the largest freshwater lake in Israel. The Sea of Galilee is approximately 33 miles in circumference, 13 miles long, and 7 miles wide. The lake is approximately 150 feet deep. At levels between 705 feet and 686 feet below sea level the Sea of Galilee is the lowest freshwater lake on Earth and the second-lowest lake overall (after the Dead Sea).

The Sea of Galilee
Our first stop before we reached the Sea of Galilee was the Jordan River Baptismal. Yardenit or “little Jordan” is a popular baptism site. At Yardenit the water flows from the Sea of Galilee into the Jordan River, and eventually runs into the Dead Sea. This site is believed to be the actual site Jesus was baptized by John the Baptist (Matthew 3:13). Many Christian pilgrims stop at Yardenit and perform baptism ceremonies, typically in small groups accompanied by the group’s pastor.

Jordan River Baptismal
The Church of the Multiplication of the Loaves and Fishes is a Roman Catholic Church on the northwest shore of the Sea of Galilee. The current church was built in 1982 and sits on the site of two earlier churches. The interior of the Church of the Multiplication has a central nave and two aisles. An apse backs the sanctuary with transepts on either side. The 5th century mosaics found within the church are the earliest known examples of figured pavement in Christian art in the Holy Land. The mosaics depict plants and animals from the Galilee. In the front of the church and under the altar, is a rock. This rock is believed to be the place on which Jesus laid the 5 loaves when he fed the 5,000. The old church was actually built around this rock. Mosaics found in front of the altar depict two fish flanking a basket containing loaves of bread. 

The Rock Where Jesus Fed the 5,000
Inside The Church of the Multiplication
Inside The Church of the Multiplication











Out next stop while visiting the holy places around the Sea of Galilee was the Church of the Twelve Apostles, which is located in the northwestern corner of Capernaum. This Greek Orthodox Church was built in 1931 and forms the shape of a cross. The small, red-domed Greek Orthodox Church of the Seven Apostles marks the site to which the village of Capernaum was relocated following the earthquake in 746. Beautiful frescos of scenes taken from the New Testament fill the interior walls of the church.  
Church of the Twelve Apostles
Beautiful Dome Inside the Church of the Twelve Apostles
 Our last stop for the day was the Mount of Beatitudes. The Mount of Beatitudes refers to a hill in northern Israel where Jesus is believed to have delivered his important Sermon on the Mount. A church, monastery, hostel, gardens, and farm are located on the hill. The current Basilica of the Church of Mount of Beatitudes was built around 1936.  The verses and symbols related to the sermons are written on mosaics on the floor of the church and around the altar. The ceiling walls have the shape of an octagon and on each side there is a window with one of the verses of the beatitudes (i.e.-blessed are the poor in spirit). The church is Byzantine in style with a marble veneer casing the lower walls and gold mosaic in the dome. In front of the church are mosaic symbols on the pavement representing Justice, Prudence, Fortitude, Temperance, Faith, Hope, and Charity.

Church of Mount of Beatitudes

Dome Inside the Church of Mount of Beatitudes
 Jerusalem
A Rooftop View of Jerusalem
 On Saturday our guide took us to Jerusalem. Our first stop was the Mount of Olives. The Mount of Olives is an important location to several faiths. As for the Christian faith, there were several important events in the life of Jesus that occurred in various locations on the Mount of Olives. For instance it is believed Jesus taught his disciples the Lord's Prayer at Pater Noster Church and he was historically betrayed and arrested at the Garden of Gethsemane. On the northern end of the Mount of Olives is where the Hebrew University of Jerusalem is located on an area called Mount Scopus. The Jewish faith has acquired a large portion of the mountain and uses it as a burial ground (approximately 150,000 are buried throughout the Mount). They believe the Messiah will come from the Golden Gate and will arrive facing the Mount of Olives. Thus, he will arrive facing the Mount of Olives and anyone buried there will be the first ones to greet the Messiah. 

The Many Graves Along the Mount of Olives
 The Golden gate is located on the east walls of the Old City of Jerusalem, leading to the temple mount. The Ottomans built the present walls of Jerusalem in 1540. The gate was sealed in 1541 AD in order to prevent the Messiah’s entrance, which according to the Jewish tradition will enter this gate. According to Christian religion, Jesus is the Messiah; according to tradition, he entered through the Golden gate on the Sunday before Passover  ("Palm Sunday") riding on a donkey.

The Golden Gate
The temple mount is the place where the Biblical temples were built, starting with King Solomon almost 3,000 years ago. The temple was built in 3 phases (Solomon, Zerubbabel, and Herod) and was destroyed by the Romans. The temple was never rebuilt again by the Jews, but was replaced by Muslim shrines in the 8th C AD which stand there today over the ruins of the base of the Roman period temple. The dome of the rock shrine with its large golden dome and an octagon structure was built in 691 AD. The rock, according to Muslim tradition, is the spot where prophet Mohamed ascended to heaven.  The shrine is located in the center of a raised platform which itself is in the center of the temple mount.
Old Jerusalem and the Dome of the Rock
  The Basilica of Agony (Church of all Nations) is a Catholic Franciscan church, built in 1924 by donations from many nations. A large mosaic picture covers the front of the church facing the temple mount. The colorful mosaic depicts the story of Gethsemane, showing Jesus in the center weeping over the future fate of Jerusalem - the destruction of the city by the Romans (which actually happened 40 years later). Before the church is the grove of the ancient olive trees. The entrance to the complex is on the north side, which opens to the north garden. The title reads "Hortus Gethsemane" or the garden of Gethsemane. According to the New Testament, this place was the site where Jesus had his last prayer before he was betrayed and arrested by the Romans. Its name (Gat Shemanim - means in Hebrew: oil press) came from the olive press that was used to process the olives. The Basilica's roof has 12 grey capes. In the ceiling these capes, are dedicated to one of the 12 nations that contributed to its construction.  Their seals are located on the corners of the capes.

Garden of Gethsemane
Church of all Nations
Inside the Church of all Nations

The Via Dolorosa or “Way of Grief” is a street within the Old City of Jerusalem believed to be the path Jesus walked carrying his cross on the way to his crucifixion. Station number 5 Simon of Cyrene carries the cross. According to Christian tradition this hollow was an imprint made when Jesus stumbled and rested his hand upon the wall to keep his balance, and the touch of centuries of pilgrims has smoothed out the stone and made the depression deeper.

Station Number Five
The Church of the Holy Sepulchre is a church within the Christian Quarter of the walled Old City of Jerusalem. The 12th century structure is located on the traditional site of Golgotha (the Hill of Calvary), the crucifixion and burial site of Jesus. The courtyard on the south side of the church is where the main door is located. There is a pair of doors, but the right door is blocked off. On the right side are stairs, which lead to the Catholic’s Chapel of the Franks, the 10th station on Via Dolorosa or “Way of Greif” (stripping off Jesus garments). Just inside the entrance to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre is the Stone of Anointing. According to tradition this is the spot where Jesus’ body was prepared for burial. The stone of anointing welcomes visitors, who kneel, pray and kiss the stone. Above the stone are lamps, each donated by one of the denominations. Inside the Holy Sepulchre, the Rock of Cavalry lies beneath the Altar of the Crucifixion. A long line of people wait for their turn to touch the site where the cross was erected and Jesus died. We chose not to wait, but to view the Rock of Calvary through the glass cases on either side of the altar. The Rotunda is located beneath the larger of the church’s two domes. In the center of the Rotunda is the chapel call the Aedicule, which contains the Holy Sepulchre. The Aedicule has two rooms, the first holding the Angel’s Stone, which is believed to be a fragment of the large stone that sealed the tomb and the second is the tomb itself. Due to the fact that pilgrims lay their hands on the tomb, it was placed in the fourteenth century a marble plaque on the tomb to prevent further damage to the tomb.

Inside the Church of the Holy Sepulchre      

The Entrance to the Holy Sepulchre
Crosses Carved in the Wall by Crusaders





The Aedicule and the Holy Sepulchre
The Rock of Cavalry lies and the Altar of the Crucifixion
The Abbey of the Dormition is an abbey located on top of Mount Zion commemorating the memory of Virgin Mary, in the traditional site of her death. The complex was built in the beginning of the 20th century over the ruins of a Byzantine church. It was on the spot near the site of the last supper that the Virgin Mary died. 

The Abbey of the Dormition
The Last Supper Room is a second-story room in Jerusalem, which commemorates the “Upper Room” in which Jesus shared the Last Supper with the disciples. The room is located directly above the Tomb of David and near the Dormition Abbey on Mount Zion. The present room was built in the 12th century, but it is believed it stands over or near the original site of the Last Supper. The original church was destroyed by fire in 614. The Last Supper Room is a mostly empty, rectangular room with pillars and a groin-vaulted ceiling. The capitals on the pillars are mainly 12th-century and Gothic in style. There are traces of 14th-century paint on the wall just inside to the right of the door.

The Ceiling of The Last Supper Room

Bethlehem, Jericho, The Dead Sea, and Masada
Our last full day in Israel started with a drive to the city of Bethlehem or “House of Bread”. A Palestinian city located in the central West Bank, neighboring south Jerusalem, with a population of about 25,000. The Hebrew Bible identifies Bethlehem as the city of David and the New Testament identifies Bethlehem as the birthplace of Jesus.

The main attraction in Bethlehem is the Church of the Nativity. This basilica was originally commissioned in 327 AD by Constantine and his mother over the site traditionally considered to be located over the cave that marks the birthplace of Jesus of Nazareth. The Church of the Nativity is the oldest standing church in the Holy Land. Underneath the present floor are beautiful mosaics of the earlier church. The church built at the direction of Constantine’s mother was octagonal in shape, typical of Byzantine memorial churches. The Church of the Nativity is designed like a typical Roman basilica, with five aisles formed by Corinthian columns and an apse in the eastern end, where the sanctuary is. The church features golden mosaics covering the sidewalls, which are now largely decayed. The church also features a large gilded iconostasis and complex array of lamps throughout the entire building. 
Inside the Church of the Nativity
The adjoining Church of St. Catherine is a Roman Catholic Church, built in a more modern Gothic revival style. This is the church where the Latin Patriarch of Jerusalem celebrates Midnight Mass on Christmas Eve. The Grotto of the Nativity is an underground cave located beneath the church enshrining the believed site of the birth of Jesus. The exact spot is marked beneath an altar by a 14-pointed Silver Star set into the marble floor and surrounded by silver lamps. The altar in the Grotto, marks the site where it is believed Mary laid her newborn Baby in the manger.

Church of St. Catherine
The Alter in the Grotto of the Nativity
 After leaving Bethlehem our next stop was the Mount of Temptation. The Mount of Temptation is traditionally regarded as the mountain on which Christ was tempted by the devil during his 40-day fast (Matthew 4:8). Mount Quarantania is a mountain approximately 1,200 feet high located about 7 miles northwest of Jericho. Atop the Mount of Temptation is the Greek Orthodox Monastery of the Temptation. A 4th-century Byzantine monastery was built on the ruins of a Hasmonean-Herodian fortress. The present Monastery of the Temptation was reconstructed at the end of the 19th century. In the valley of The Mount of Temptation, Jewish priests and Levites traveled the winding road from Jericho to Jerusalem when it was their turn to minister in the Temple. In the time of Jesus, approximately 12,000 priests and Levites lived in Jericho. 

Mount of Temptation
After our history lesson at the Mount of Temptation our guide took us to the city of Jericho. Jericho is believed to be one of, if not the oldest cities in the world. Archaeologists have unearthed the remains of more than 20 successive settlements in Jericho, the first of which dates back 11,000 years (9000 BC). Jericho is described in the Hebrew Bible as the “City of Palm Trees”. It is known in Judeo-Christian tradition as the place of the decisive Battle of Jericho, which secured the Israelites, return to the Promised Land from bondage in Egypt. Nearby is the Spring of Elisha, or Sultan's spring, where the prophet sweetened the water  (2 Kings 2). This is the source of water for the oasis.  The oasis of Jericho is about 390 meters below sea level and has warm and pleasant winters. It was because of its warm winters, Jericho was chosen as the site for the winter palaces of the kings of the Hasmonean dynasty, and of King Herod. 

Spring of Elisha
After leaving Jericho we headed to the Dead Sea for a relaxing afternoon float. The Dead Sea or “Sea of Salt” is a salt lake. The surface and shores of the Dead Sea are 1,401 feet below sea level and the Earth’s lowest elevation. The Dead Sea is 1,237 feet deep making it the deepest hyper saline lake in the world. A hyper saline lake is a landlocked body of water that contains significant concentrations of sodium chloride or other mineral salts, with saline levels surpassing that of ocean water. The Dead Sea is roughly 8.6 times saltier than the ocean. This salinity makes for a harsh environment in which animals cannot flourish (hence its name). 
The Shore of the Dead Sea
 The Dead Sea is 42 miles long and 11 miles wide at its widest point. The unusually high salt concentration means that people can easily float in the Dead Sea due to natural buoyancy. The Dead Sea has attracted visitors from around the Mediterranean basin for thousands of years. Biblically, it was a place of refuge for King David and one of the world’s first health resorts for Herod the Great. Daily 7 million tons of water evaporates but the minerals remain, causing the salt content to increase and the Dead Sea is shrinking. Because of the dropping level of the Dead Sea, the southern end is no longer under water, except for that which is channeled by aqueducts for the purpose of extracting minerals.

Floating in the Dead Sea

Floating in the Dead Sea



Rock Covered in Salt Along the Shore of the Dead Sea

Our last stop of the day was Masada. An ancient fortification situated on top of an isolated rock plateau. It was the last and most important fortress of the great Jewish rebellion against Rome (66-73 AD). Masada is located on a diamond-shaped flat plateau. The hill is surrounded by deep gorges, at a height of roughly 440 meters above the Dead Sea level. Herod the Great built palaces for himself on the mountain and fortified Masada between 37 and 31 BC.

Masada